Reader's Questions: Open Closet = Moths?

Danielle asks: " I used to store my garments on a rack, which was beautiful and very convenient, but then I started to find holes in my clothes! I've been told these were definitely caused by silverfish or moths (my home is very clean! I just like fresh air and keep my windows open most of the time). From that point on, I stored my clothes in cheap wardrobes and it's quite ugly. My question is how do you cope with moths and such? I would be too afraid to ever store my garments outside of the closet without closed doors..."

First, are they holes or tears? Natural fibers tend to break, to tell, grip the fabric to try to 'close' the hole by bringing the fabric together. If there's a piece missing that's a hole and you may have moths, but you may not. I have tears in several of my pieces but I've never had moths. Clothing moths usually create several holes next to each other and you'll see the cocoons or dead moths that look like sawdust near the holes. Did you see any dead moths or casings on your clothes?

Clothing moths are not like other moths that are attracted to light; they like dark, closed, humid spaces and are attracted to what we leave behind on natural fiber clothing such as our oils, hairs, and skin cells. They love it when we wear something once or twice then put it back in the closet or drawer not to be touched for a while. 

Do you have wall to wall carpet? I had a client who's home was also very clean but had moths living in the carpet. They tend to be near the baseboards where you don't spend too much time really vacuuming (corner of closets, behind furniture). Another client has a reoccurring problem and we suspect someone in a nearby apartment is infested and they're coming into her space.

The point is that having your clothes out is not the problem. Keeping your space and clothes clean is the only solution. If you really think you have clothes moths you need to have ALL your clothes cleaned; dry cleaned or laundered as needed. I'm assuming you didn't clean ALL your clothes when you suspected you had moths. I assume this because most people don't because it's annoying and expensive but it's the only way.

Edit out the pieces you don't love and wear and make sure you regularly clean the clothes you do have. For most I generally don't recommend cleaning clothes after every wear, but definitely at the end of the season even if you've only worn it once. But for those who have had moths in the past, regular cleaning is a must. 

But you may not have moths. People see a hole and they immediately think it's moths (silverfish leave stains not necessarily holes). Not sure what clothes you have but that can make a difference. My wool and cashmere get tears because I don't have a lot of clothes so things get worn a lot. Vintage clothing can tear because over time fibers break down. And if you tend towards fast-fashion (like from H&M, Target, Forever 21) the inexpensive synthetic clothing breaks down much faster, usually after a few wearings. 

Let me know what you think Danielle, I hope this helps!!

The Meaning of Wardrobe: Continued

(bangles by giles + brother, snake bracelet subconscious leathers)

(dkny blouse)

(j.crew)

(prada)

A lot of questions have been coming up on The Meaning of Wardrobe post so I wanted to do a follow up.

I've written a bit on this topic, but to clarify, I mostly write about creating my wardrobe, with the exception of the step by step series 'Building a Wardrobe' which is general advice and is a very good read if you're starting from scratch.

Not a big fan of throwaway fashion, but I understand why others do it. I treat my $25 tops the same as the $300 ones because it's hard to find things I love so it's all the same once it's in my closet. I don't follow trends too closely and actually try to avoid things that are too popular unless I really love it. For instance, I'm not planning on getting any kind of oxford or lace-up flats but I did get a gorgeous cape a few years ago I look forward to wearing again this season.

Take what applies to you and your lifestyle. There are many ways to do things, including how to build your wardrobe. Readers have posted their approach in the comments of the original post so be sure to check them out, and share any tips of your own if you like!

The Meaning of Wardrobe

all images thesartorialist.com (i think):

A wardrobe is a thought out collection of pieces that work together to express a clear point of view.

Before I went through my process (before I was an organizer), I had clothes; individual pieces that had no relationship to each other. Pieces that needed me to purchase new things to make an outfit around it. Pieces that didn't fit my lifestyle and were never worn. Pieces that stand on their own are nice, but if you cannot wear them, what good are they?

When buying something now, I think of how it relates to my wardrobe as a whole. I get pieces that enhance what I have instead of just 'oh this is nice' like I used to do. Pieces that help me wear the things I already have in new ways.

Do you have clothes or an actual wardrobe?

Living Better With Less: Clothes

"Elegance does not consist in putting on a new dress" - Coco Chanel

It's Almost Time For The Closet Switch...

September in NYC means the seasonal closet switch is coming up. I do it around the end of the month when it starts getting a bit cooler and need my heavier wool/cashmere sweaters. But now I put the absolute/obvious summer clothes to the side; linen pants/skirts/dresses + some tops, flip flops, certain sun dresses, white pants, certain sandals.

I realize the image here has NOTHING to do with the topic but I saw it on clientsfromhell.net, a blog dedicated to horror stories from designers. I think the title of the image works with just about anything. Thought you may like it!

Valentino Said It Best

The other night a friend of a friend made a very astute observation "Do you know you only wear neutrals? You need to wear color, you should wear red." Besides the fact I find it hard taking style advice from someone wearing a pink sweatshirt and running pants to a party, when people say that I should wear color (especially red) I can't help but think of the moment in Valentino: The Last Emperor, when Valentino said in regards to his signature red gowns, "The red dresses are the most simple and the most stupid!"

I wish everyone can agree not to give 'shoulds' where they're not asked. Personally I refrain from giving unsolicited advice because I know I'm tired of hearing how I should wear color, get a tan, wear a push-up bra... Do you get any annoying 'shoulds'?

Packing For a Chic Getaway

write out the days you'll be away

lay out possible outfits on the bed...

or hang on a rod...

(click on image for larger view)

Write out each day you will be away, filling in the events and general things you'll be doing; walking around, nice dinner, casual lunch. Either write down possible outfits or pull them out so you can see them, including accessories and undergarments.

Start with events/times you have an idea what you'd like to wear and go from there. The idea is to wear individual pieces more than once, but not the same outfit more than once. Think about pieces that can be worn in multiple ways; a fancy top with a skirt and heels then with casual pants and flats. Also think about simple pieces that won't be obvious you're wearing more than once. For instance the beaded neck top pictured above would be hard to wear twice unless I'm not seeing the same people.

Pick a color scheme to make it easy to mix pieces and accessories seamlessly. Then at the end, toss in an extra sweater and a couple simple tops for just in case....

The pics are from my wardrobe, but this works for those with color and prints as well. If you're outfits aren't layered play around with the accessories to dress an outfit up or down.

How To Tie Your Shoes. No, Seriously

A few days after seeing, a client was saying how she doesn't like wearing her sneakers because the laces almost always eventually come untied. I sent her the link to this video showing how none of us really know how to properly tie our shoes and I thought you'd like to see it too. (in case you're new here, all bolded text are links).

TED is a wonderful resource by the way for exceptional lectures from some of the smartest people in the world ranging a number of topics. Highly recommended....

Living Better With Less: Buying What Lasts

(photo courtesy of NY Magazine.com)

Wanted to share a snidbit from NY Magazine's interview with Julie Gilhart, former women's fashion director at Barney's. I totally agree with her answer to the following question:

You're a big champion of eco-conscious fashion, but it can be really difficult to convince people to buy something eco-friendly when their top priority is looking good. How do you reconcile that?

Well, it's really about making conscious decisions that aren't wasteful. Like with Lanvin, one of my favorites, there's nothing organic about it. But Alber [Elbaz]'s clothes tend to be very well made, and they never go out of style. So in Lanvin's case, you're buying a jacket that you can wear for years. I have a jacket that I bought that's from 2001, and I'm still wearing it. It's very difficult to buy 100 percent organic or sustainable, but the number one conscious decision is to not buy more than you need, and to buy things that last. If I had a choice to buy a T-shirt that's made in New York City versus a T-shirt that's made in China, and they're very similar, I'm probably going to choose the one that's made in New York, you know? And if I choose the one that's made in China — and that would be because it has a certain look, or a certain fit, or a certain price that's appealing — then I'm going to buy it and keep it and wear it for a long time. It's just about not being wasteful.

Read the entire article here.

Jewelry Cabinet

We're getting very close to finishing this apartment. The latest thing to tackle was her jewelry, including her mother's pieces that she hadn't looked at for many years. Using muji acrylic drawers and cork boards this chinese cabinet formerly holding a mish-mash of stuff is now the jewelry cabinet.

We sorted everything into:

- sentimental, but wouldn't wear (stored separately)

- donate

- sell

- give away to friends, family

- pieces to keep

For her mother's pieces, which are pretty fabulous, I helped her make them her own; I'm quite familiar with her wardrobe, so suggested how and what to wear them with.

Blog Love: the Coveteur

(all images courtesy of thecoveteur.com)

A client turned me onto an new amazing blog, theCOVETEUR. It's like The Selby but with fashion insider's closets. Some shots of the closets, but mostly detailed shots of the clothes themselves.

Readers Questions: My Wardrobe, Specific Points

some of my faves:

(some belts. top left: J Crew, Banana Republic. top right: Martin Margiela. bottom: Marni, Mint, Dries Van Noten.)

(my favorite skirt, Laura Whitcomb of Label)

(honeycomb laser-cut dress by IAN RN)

(one of many silk cami's from Jean Yu)

(my version of a sweatshirt by Dries Van Noten)

I don't have a suggested list of 'must have pieces'. I believe you should figure out how you want to look and find pieces that support that look. The reality is not everyone has the same needs for their lifestyle, desired style, body-type, and not to mention weather!

For my lifestyle, body-type, and location, my personal must have pieces are:

• jeans; this year they're all skinny black jeans (the 4 pairs I have)
• nice pants; not worn too often, I have 3 pairs; 2 wool, 1 silk
• tanks; both loose and fitted (I prefer them instead of T-shirts)
• cardigans; all weights, all lengths, multiples in same colors
• trench coats; all weights and lengths, even ones not for the rain
• flats (though not ballet flats)
• tall boots; to the knee looks best on me

- I do not own:

• rubber flip flops
• sneakers
• running /yoga pants
• sweatshirts or hoodies
• cotton-ribbed anything (universally unflattering and doesn't wash well)

- When I first went through the process, I had too many fancy clothes and shoes I had no occasion to wear, no matter how dressed down I styled them. Rule #1: don't buy super fancy clothes I won't wear...

- Considering the change in seasons, it took me about 3 years to get to the point I really loved my wardrobe, though I didn't consider it 'complete'.

- I live with what I have to see if I need more of a particular thing like cardigans which I wear everyday (I have about 8 black cardigans). I tend to wear the same thing over and over.

- I love J Crew, Alexander Wang, and Rick Owens for simple tanks, J Crew for cardigans,Barneys CO-OP for their selection of jeans, Sigerson Morrison and Loeffler Randall for shoes and boots.

- I don't like online shopping looking for 'bargains'. A bargain for me is something I love and wear time and again, not something that was on super sale. If I do go online, I stick to jcrew.com, net-a-porter.com, and barneys.com.

- I like designer consignment stores as the pieces are carefully edited and many things look like they've never been worn. My two favorite shops are in Bklyn, and Soho.

Readers Questions: My Wardrobe, Key Points

(I think this pic of me is funny. Yes, it was a

halloween party and I went as myself)

My processes are drawn from my own experiences. I've always been neat and organized but defined my sense of style and created home(s) and wardrobe without following any set guidelines. I wrote out the general processes for you and my clients to benefit from, but now here are some more personal notes...

- The biggest thing is not being influenced by others on how I should look. Growing up, people (strangers mostly) told me I was too thin, too pale, I shouldn't wear black or white... bla bla bla! I'm naturally thin and pale, and after being insecure about it, I decided it was healthier to work with what I have instead of fighting it.

- My look is mainly 'chic' and 'well-put-together' for work, casual, and/or special occasions. My casual dress has always been more dressed than others (I prefer the word 'dressed' over 'dressy' or 'dressed-up'). I'm not talking being dolled up all the time, but my idea of comfortable is not sneakers.

- I'm tactile so if I don't like the material, I don't bother with it. My clothes are mostly merino wool, cashmere, cotton, silk, and the new rayon and polyesters that look and feel like silk. Yes that means almost everything I own is dry-clean only, but I hand wash most of it.

- I've never been a big fan of color though I have worn it before. I like subtly and neutrals are more 'chic' than loud colors and patterns. Though I have a limited palate, I prefer to mix it up over being matchy-matchy; I'd never wear my ivory heals with my ivory handbag.

- I shop by myself. Friends put their values on you, so to avoid the awkward conversations of why I do or do not like something, where to shop and how much to spend, I shop alone.

- As most chain store clothes do not fit me (I'm short and slight), I tend to buy designer clothes. Still, over 1/2 my wardrobe has been tailored. Not only for fit, but when necessary, I have pieces I'm not wearing altered so I like them more.

Reader's Questions: Building a Wardrobe Part I

(bangles by giles + brother)

(dries van noten)

(sigerson morrison, leoffler randall)

Abbi asks "I would love to know more about your wardrobe! It always looks so lovely in photos. You mentioned a few posts ago that you invest in your clothes over other things like fine art, etc. I'm trying to revamp my wardrobe (with basically no money) and am wondering what your tips are for shopping and what types of pieces you think are essential. To borrow from the book "Nothing to Wear?" I have too many (cheap) "frosting/flair" pieces and not enough "cake/foundational" pieces."

Abbi, check out my series 'How To Build and Edit Your Wardrobe'. This should give you a good basis to start, but I'll do a post(s) elaborating on how I did it with my own wardrobe. Though I'll warn you, I don't love most of the 'Must Have Lists' out there as I personally don't own a white button down shirt or a blazer...